The
SeaGull 1963 has become a bit of a cult classic in the affordable watch
world. Its authentic mid-century design, military provenance, and very
reasonable price account for part of its popularity, but to really
explain its charm, I invited some fellow enthusiasts and 1963 owners to
tell me why they love it. Our impressions are below, but first, some
background information is in order.
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| The Time Bum's 38mm "Red Star" |
The Tianjin Watch Factory made the first Chinese watch in 1961 and were
soon assigned to make an official timepiece for the Air Force of the
Peoples Liberation Army. Project 304, as it was called, used Venus
Watches calibre 175, a Swiss column wheel design found in many 1940s and
50s chronographs, including Breitling. The movement was purchased from
Venus for use in this watch and eventually became the SeaGull ST19 used
today. In the 1963, the movement has either 19 or 21 jewels (depending
on production) and a power reserve of about 40 hours. The ST19 has a bit
of a checkered reputation as certain batches supplied to third party
micro brands had abnormally high number of defective units. I have heard
rumours that the problems stemmed from poor assembly of ébauches, but I
could not confirm.
The modern incarnations retain the aesthetics of the original: domed
crystal, polished case, baton hands, 30 minute accumulator at 3 o'clock,
small seconds at 9 o'clock, and a combination of applied gold numerals
and dart-shaped markers. The initial reissue was 38mm across with an
acrylic crystal, silver dial, blue hands, and a red second hand. Since
then, other variants have appeared, including sapphire crystals, black
and cream dials, and even a 42mm with a white and black, or black and
silver "panda" dials. They may be purchased from SeaGull1963.com, Island Watch (LongIslandWatch.com), WatchUnique.com,
and other sellers. They are generally priced between $170-350 USD
depending on model and seller. The cream and black dial versions are the
newest and are offered by watchmaker and Watchuseek regular
Thomas/"hked" through the Watchuseek Chinese Mechanical Watch forum.
I purchased an original design reissue from a private seller a couple of
years ago and it quickly became one of the core watches in my
collection. It is a charming piece. Because each of the variations have
their own distinct character, I thought it might be interesting to ask
some fellow enthusiasts to discuss their own watches and explain the
attraction in their own words.
I acted as interviewer, editor, and the representative of the older "Red
Star" PLA Air Force version, along with sometime Guest Bum, Ian
Tewksbury. Watchuseek forum denizens Bradjholmes and hwa weighed in on
the cream and black dialed hked versions, and Ita of Melbourne,
Australia covered the "Big Panda."
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| 42mm "Big Panda" on pilot strap - Photo by Ita. |
Which version of the 1963 do you own?
TB: I have a 38mm case with the acrylic crystal, silver dial, and red star.
HWA: I have the new hked/Thomas version, 38mm acrylic crystal, one each cream dial and black dial.
BH: Mine is the latest reissue with black dial, 38mm case and display back.
ITA: I actually own two, a WUS Chinese Mechanical Forum 38mm Cream Dial
project watch and a Sea Gull (Thomas/hked re-issue) 42mm Reverse Panda.
Both have the acrylic crystal. I’ll restrict my answers to the 42mm
Panda version.
IT: I have a 38mm case with the acrylic crystal, silver dial, red star, 21 zuan (jewel) text, and unsigned crown.
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| hked Cream and Black dial versions - Photo by hwa |
Why did you buy a 1963?
TB: I wanted a vintage mechanical chronograph but did not want to pay
more than a couple hundred bucks. The SeaGull had just the look I
wanted: small case, high dome, and a nicely detailed dial. The fact that
it was based on an original mid-century military design did not hurt
either.
HWA: When I first began collecting watches in a somewhat serious manner,
I was drawn to both the Affordables and Chinese watch forums at WUS. In
the CMW, in particular, the 1963 is a favorite due to its great looks,
its affordability, and its historic interest. I fell in love with its
looks, which led me to overlook any concerns over the ST19 hand wind.
Initially, I purchased one of the Watchunique pieces, 38mm cream with
acrylic, with the red star. When hked version came out, I quickly sold
the watchunique version in favor of the hked version, for two reasons:
reliability concerns caused me to prefer to deal directly with
hked/Thomas in the event I ran into any problem. This was not due to any
particular concern with watchunique, but rather reflects on my trust in
hked/Thomas from experience with the several project watches they have
shepherded. Also, I preferred the historical accuracy of the hked
version and also find it to be better executed.
BH: There aren’t many other watches available that have the same vintage
vibe for such a reasonable cost. Chronographs are cool (everyone knows
that), and mechanical chronographs doubly so.
ITA: Well to be honest I knew absolutely nothing about Sea Gull or the
history of the 1963 Chronograph until I stumbled across the WUS Chinese
Mechanical Forum project watch about 8 months ago. I loved the look, the
history and the price so I jumped on it. This sparked my interest in
Chinese Mechanicals and I began researching them. I have a small but
diverse collection of watches so I wasn’t actually looking for another
1963, but when I saw the 42mm Reverse Panda version I was hooked. I was
happy to purchase another as it was dramatically different to my 38mm
Cream Dial and can live happily in the same watch box without crossing
over themes/styles too much. So the answer is, I like chronos and this
one fits into my collection at a more than reasonable price, with a look
that gets plenty of wrist-time.
IT: I did a watch exchange with the Time Bum for my Blue Monster and for
a couple weeks the rest of the watches in my case got very jealous of
the wrist time the Seagull 1963 was getting. It took me no time at all
to fall in love with the gold embossed numerals, blued hands, and red
seconds hand with that slightly metallic campaign dial. I was done in
for with the Chinese characters and the unabashed red star on the
otherwise see through case back. I also personally lust after different
and interesting movements, and doubly so with exhibition case backs. The
Seagull being an affordable impulse buy manual chronograph on top of
everything else I just had to have one. Since the Time Bum was holding
my Blue Monster hostage, I did eventually have to give the Seagull back.
Before I did though, I sourced one of my own from WatchUSeek and it was
on its way over the ocean before the swap back.
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| The Time Bum's 1963 |
Why did you choose your particular model?
TB: At the time I bought it, it was the only version available, but I'd
get the same one if I were buying today. The 42mm versions are cool,
but too modern in their size, which takes away a bit off charm. Same
with the sapphire vs acrylic crystal. The acrylic is true to the
original.
HWA: As noted, I chose the watchunique initially due to cost and
availability—it was the only acrylic version then available. I swapped
it for the hked/Thomas versions, and have never doubted that choice.
BH: I’ve been tempted by several other incarnations of the 1963 over the
last couple of years. I quickly decided the 42mm Panda dials are too
big for me and don’t have quite the same charm as the original cream
dial. When the latest reissue was introduced with the option of the
seldom seen black dial version I finally decided to bite the bullet and
order one. I opted for the display back version as although the ST19 may
not be the best finished movement out there, it’s still got so much
going on that you’re going to want to see it.
ITA: Diversity. There is nothing else like it in my collection. Yes I
have another watch with the ST-19 Movt. but the case size, lugs, dial
colour and band options totally separate it from its sibling. The dial
is striking, its layout, balance and detail are very very pleasing to
the eye and the domed acrylic crystal give it a great vintage look.
IT: I did my best to try and source the exact same one I fell in love
with. This proved more difficult then I thought it might, but the
challenge is always fun. The 42mm were much more easier to find, but I
wanted the 38mm with acrylic crystal. Partly because I have tiny 6.5"
wrists, and more importantly I already knew I loved the 38, so why go
changing something that works. The only two things that ended up being
different about mine, despite my best efforts, was no signed crown and
21 zuan on the dial rather then 19 zuan. There seems to be conflicting
reports about why, despite it being the same ST19 movement, the dial
says 21 zuan on some models, such as mine. The 21 zuan has grown on me
over the past few months, the lack of a signed crown has not, and when
ever I see the Time Bum's I lust after it. I am a sucker for the
details. Maybe one of these days I'll track down one with a signed
crown, but then it wouldn't be mine with my story, so perhaps not.
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| Decorated ST-19 movement - Poto by Bradjholmes |
What are your impressions of the ST-19 movement?
TB: I have been very happy with it. I have heard the horror stories
about the reliability of some batches, but this is my second (the other
is the Magrette Moana Pacific Pro Chronograph) and I've had no problems.
I understand if you get a wonky one, you will know right away . Mine
have been humming for years so I have no reason to think they will flake
out now. I love the fact that it brings the mechanical chronograph down
to such an attainable price point.
HWA: I have several ST19 powered watches: a Lew & Huey Riccardo and G
Gerlach Aurochs, both of which I purchased used, a G Gerlach Sokol
1000, just delivered, and the two ‘63s. The L&H is the ST1940
automatic variant. I purchased it knowing the rotor had come loose, and
was able to have it repaired quite inexpensively and successfully. It
has the reset “problem” if you will, in that the chrono does not always
reset to “12.” The Aurochs is currently being winging its way to Gerlach
for replacement of the crown/stem assembly, as the crown sheared off. I
think that is a reflection on the bullhead design more than a problem
with the ST19. I have had no problem with the hked '63s, but I wear
them sparingly. Overall, my impression of the ST19 is mixed, and I
intend to purchase one or two good quality spare movements to have on
hand in case of a need for a drop-in replacement. It is exceedingly
difficult if not impossible to find a North American watchmaker who will
disassemble an ST19, and frankly it would not be cost effective to
attempt a repair beyond a drop in replacement.
BH: This is the third ST19 I’ve owned, but I didn’t keep the other two
for very long. I haven’t experienced mechanical failure in any of them
though. The ST19 has a bit of a bad reputation for reliability, but it
seems that if it works then it works well. The movement winds very well,
has a nice feel to the start/stop/reset of the chronograph and has a
very audible and charming ‘ticker-ticker-ticker’ sound to it. Despite so
many horror stories about the movement I wouldn’t shy away from owning
more, though I would make sure I only buy from a seller with a pretty
good returns policy for defective movements.
ITA: To be honest I’m pleasantly surprised. I had low expectations after
web research returned some horrific tales of woe interlaced with
fan-boy stories of incredible accuracy and durability. The meaty crown
on mine is embossed with the 5 point star, the Movt. winds very smoothly
and runs at +8spd with about 50 hours power reserve! The chrono,
starts, stops and resets flawlessly.
IT:
Works great for me. I have never tested how many seconds it losses a
day. In any case it is certainly not losing enough for me to notice. I
just adore the finishing of the movement as seen through the exhibition
case back, though obstructed by the unabashed red star. I have spent
more time then I care to divulge to the internet watching the movement
tick away and watching the pieces move as I start/stop the chronograph
and reset it. I also very much enjoy the satisfying ticking of the
movement. Some may say it is load, I say it is present and glorious.
"Ian, what is that load ticking sound coming from under your shirt
cuff?" "Oh, that, that's just my vintage style Chinese manual
chronograph." You can only imagine how much play with the ladies that
gets me.
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| Detail of hked black dial - Photo by Bradjholmes |
How much did you pay, and how would you rate its value?
TB: Mine was originally purchased from seagull1963.com, but not by me. I
lucked out and snagged it used for $180 but even at current list price
it is an outstanding value.
HWA: I paid $220 each for the hked versions.
BH: My version cost $220 plus shipping via hked on the watchuseek forum.
In terms of value I would say that it’s right up there with the best.
ITA: $235US direct from Thomas in HK. Value? Extraordinary!!! A column
wheel chronograph that looks and functions like this is really 1980’s
value for that money.
IT:
$355 including shipping from Hong Kong. If this was ebay I would give
it an "A++++++++++". Worth every single penny, and probably more, but
don't tell the Chinese that, its wonderful just as it is at just the
price it is.
How and where do you wear it?
TB: To the office. It is strictly a coat and tie watch for me. It almost never comes out on the weekends.
HWA: I wear them infrequently and strictly casually. I have other dress watches, so these are just for fun.
BH: Pretty much anywhere. I don’t tend to baby my watches too much or
buy anything that I wouldn’t be comfortable wearing under a shirt cuff
in the office or in shorts and t-shirt on the weekend. I’ve changed the
stock strap to a rich brown Seawolf strap which helps to keep the watch
looking fairly casual.
ITA: I wear it a lot. It’s a work watch and a casual week-ender. I have
some very nice dress watches so I’ve never tried to dress it up, but I
guess I could. I wear it on a black and red NATO or on a black leather
(Stowa) Flieger strap. Both combos look awesome.
IT: I believe the answer to this question is, "Yes." I wear it in most
settings with most types of attire. Suit and bow tie - check. Nice jeans
and a sweater - check. Not so nice jeans and a graphic t-shirt, -check.
It's awesome, I love it, and I find an excuse to wear it whenever and
however I can.
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| Splendid acrylic dome and signed crown - Photo by Bradjholmes |
What is your favorite aspect of the watch?
TB: In addition to what I mentioned above, I love the color scheme of
the dial. If you told me you had a silver dial with gold markers, blue
hands, and a red second hand, I'd imagine something garish and awful.
This isn't. The colors are just enough for an accent, and not enought to
overwhelm.
HWA: Just the overall look and appearance. The size, the acrylic high
dome crystal, the execution of the dial and handset, all works for me.
I slightly prefer the look of the blue hands on the watchunique version
over the gold hands on the hked cream dial, but the hked is so much
better executed that I don’t care. The black dial, though, just wow.
BH: Without a doubt my favourite aspect those raised indices and logo.
The dial is a matte black so the contrast against the polished surfaces
is really nice when the light catches it.
ITA: Probably the domed crystal vintage look. But in reality it’s the
total form, function, value, and history combination that make it a
favourite in the watch-box.
IT:
Again, I have to go with "Yes." All the aspects are my favorite. But if
I had to pick, its when the sun hits the dial just right to really
reflect off the bright metallic gold of the numbers and blue and red of
the hands. Makes me fall in love over and over. Now if I could just
figure out how to take an Instagram picture of it that really did it any
justice.
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| Ian's 1963 "Red Star" - Photo by Ian Tewksbury |
Is there anything you would change?
TB: I changed the strap almost immediately. It came on olive canvas,
which was fine but not what I was looking for. I have it on a tapered,
oil tanned, dark brown leather by Hadley-Roma. It's a good conservative
look.
HWA: I changed the straps, and in fact refused to wear either of the
watches until the new straps arrived. I suppose I have a strap thing.
Both are on Eulit Kristall Perlon strap (these are the authentic
Perlon, not the nylon knockoff) and they are as inexpensive as great
looking. I have the cream dial on a blue strap, and the black on black,
and think these combos look as good as anything else I’ve seen.
BH: Nothing that can realistically be changed. The readability isn’t
great in low light as the hour and minute hands can get a bit lost
against the matte dial, but the thin, polished hands are part of what
makes the watch look so great in the light. I do find that the watch
wears a bit tall, but due to the movement it would be difficult to go
thinner without losing two important aesthetic plus points – the domed
acrylic crystal and the display back.
ITA: Longer lasting lume would be handy when I’m on night shift, and the
decorated ST-19 movement, although sorta funky looking, borders on
cheesy.
IT: I changed out the strap, but duh. The Seagull just craves fine brown
leather. I am actually not completely in love with my current choice, a
chocolate calf gator grain from Crown & Buckle, if anyone has any
suggestions I am always open. Other then that, I just really wish mine
had the signed crown. Otherwise, don't change perfection man.
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| Big Panda pairs well with NATOs and beer - Photo by Ita |
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